There have been several humbling moments so far during my trip: being tossed like a cork in the crazy pacific “ferry” ride in Galapagos, feeling the significant non-invincibility of altitude sickness, food sickness, and 4 days of Inca trail definitely rates high on the list. One thing is for sure, one does not “do” South America, South America “does” you! Just take the precautions and enjoy the ride.
On this point, there’s nothing like facing off with steep wall after wall of gigantic mountains steps with the only way being forward (up) to make you realise how insignificant and small you are.
Though Inca trail in hindsight was more about endurance vs fitness (which btw after a month of traveling and tacos, neither were exactly for me very high 🙈), it remains not for the faint hearted! Regardless, go slow as you need, keep going and the views and experience I promise, are absolutely worth it.
How on earth the incans pulled giant rocks from surrounding Rocky Mountains 600 years ago, cut them and dragged them up there is a complete mystery. In my mind incans have become the size and strength of Hercules.
But I’m getting ahead… let’s go back. Freshly landed from Lima, enamored and well fed by Lima’s amazing food scene I was excited to see what Cusco city had to offer. Having learnt my lesson from Ecuador I took it super easy the first 2 days, chilling close to the hotel, drinking coca tea and wandering around the town.
At a last minute, I joined a walking tour in the city run by Wild Free Walking tours, getting under the skin of some intense history! Cusco, named as the belly button and capital of the Incan empire once spanned across large parts of Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia and Chile. After the conquistadores took over the empire, most structures were destroyed with the most sacred used as a foundation for new colonial and religious buildings. In fact, the 14 cathedrals in the City were built atop exactly 14 Incan palaces (of 14 Incan kings). Certainly made one view entering a cathedral in a different light.
Back to those mountains…
I went with Alpaca Expeditions after much research, and our adventure started easy enough. We had a briefing the previous evening going through blow by blow, what we will be doing (enduring – but with beautiful views!) from the point of our hotel pickup, which would be between 3:30-4am the next morning! 😱
That wakeup time, I would learn, would become a normality over the next days to maximize on daylight.
Day 1 started us easy. After a windy mountain drive, we made it to entrance of the Inca trail by around 9am.
Our team of 19 porters and 2 chefs prepared an impressive breakfast setup out in the middle of nowhere, and suddenly Inca trail was not feeling so daunting! Yet..
After being equipped with our hiking sticks, repacking duffel bags to include our sleeping bags, we were off.
here’s a snap of me happily swinging away with my walking sticks before the real work began..
We hit our first climb after the first 2 hours, passing ancient Inca sites along the way. Sudden changes in incline apparent through increased huffing and puffing and decreased conversation. We worked our way uphill for a further 2 hours to our first lunch stop, where our amazingly speedy porters had already prepared a spread.
I will forever remain in awe of how our chefs and cooks managed over the next days to prepare considerably gourmet breakfasts , lunches, dinners in mountain conditions… here’s a selection:
Yes, that is a cake 😱!
First day ended with a final 3 hours uphill to our first campsite. Hot, tired, sweaty, but happy, we were grateful for our little basins of about a liter of hot water to wash up in our tents before dinner.
That… was training day.
Day 2 was the killer… two big peaks, starting with a 4am wakeup with hot coca tea. Still rubbing our eyes and after breakfast we were off. Our first climb of 4 hours to the infamous Dead Woman’s Pass (named for its shape vs anything morbid… though certainly there were many half dead women and men that day!!!) was tough . Our up until then relatively cohesive group began to break up into the fast group, middle-slow and slow as we made our way up the gruelingly steep terrain, half hanging on our walking sticks.
The scenery due to the high altitude changes (up to 4215m) on this day were particularly stunning. Moments of exhaustion were forgotten as we stared around each time in amazement and awe at the surrounding scenery, which kept changing as we climbed higher, breaking through rainforest, cloud forests and cloud lines.
Either way, despite not feeling it possible, as a group we all successfully made it to base camp 2, well on time at just before 5pm on the dot. Our guide entertained us that evening of a story of a group he once had, where the porters finally had to come to Dead woman’s pass with torches to carry exhausted trekkers the rest of the way, to finally make it to camp by 7pm!
Still early in the day:
Barely visible glaciers through the mists.
A backwards view…
the next couple days were really a blur. Legs and knees in pain from the intense climbs and downhills the last 2 days, we stumbled through the final “trek” day before stargazing (3 shooting stars! 🌠 ) and going to bed way too late for our early 3am start the next day to Machu Picchu.
Machu Picchu day was beautiful, sunny, hot and blue skies. But the day and the site itself seemed overshadowed by the intense experiences the last few days. Truly , the journey was the destination. We enjoyed the last views after a final hike of 2 hours to the site, before saying goodbye to the mountains and making our way on the train back to Cusco.
The last ones standing of our group finished the night with alpaca steaks and drinks out in town
Cusco itself, is a city of charm. By far most stunning at night, especially as surrounding mountain barrios frame the city with glittery lights in the night.
I highly recommend the walking tours I mentioned earlier, as well as Calle Loreto to get up and personal with adorable alpacas, wandering San Blas as well as the Limbusbar for some excellent pisco and amazing views.
The Machu Picchu museum is also a short fascinating visit, before or after visiting the site itself.
I also had probably some of the best food in Cusco, though given this is where I also ended with food poisoning on my last day, it can be a little touch and go. Words of advice to avoid fish at the market, in fact, maybe avoid fish totally! Fellow travelers later reflected that fish probably wasn’t all too fresh in the middle of the mountains…. yep, all makes sense in hindsight!
Regardless, I survived the ordeal and with a few days delay and filled with drugs prescribed by a Lima clinic, I was off on a hop on/off bus lima enroute towards south of Peru & Bolivia and ready for the next leg of my adventure!